May 23 - Check-in Day

The Travelodge breakfast was unremarkable, but decent. For $129, it had better be. They have various Yellowstone nature documentaries playing on a continuous loop, so at least there's entertainment.

As I expected, John called fairly early. He was concerned when he didn't find an email. Not having internet access is like missing a sense, once you're used to it. We have a nice catch-up chat. Then it's time to pack up & head to the HR office.

My plan was to arrive between 8 & 8:30. They open at 7, but I suspect that the two adjoining motels – both sold out – have housed quite a few other new employees. I expect they'll pop in as soon as it opens. Of course, I want to arrive before the bus from Bozeman pulls in, which I was told usually happens around 9 or 9:30. But on arrival, I see a bus there already, and about ten people are ahead of me in line. So my assumption is that the bus arrived early.

Fortunately, the Xanterra folks seen to have their act together. First you wait to check in, then that person gives your IDs (license & Social Security card, in my case) to the person who does your background check. Meanwhile you get your employee manual, and sit in a waiting area. I chat with two young women from Wisconsin, who drove from there towing a horse trailer. I wonder if the one who owns the horse might be working trail rides. (Our carriage driver in Acadia National Park had brought her own horses.) But it turns out she's boarding the horse up the road, and just wants to have it nearby. They've both worked in the park before, and are headed to Roosevelt Lodge.

I also notice a family of three – a couple about my age with a son who appears college age. I hadn't thought of seasonal employment as a family thing, but why not? Possibly they have an RV, or they'll have separate rooms. They're at the other end of a very crowded room, so I have no chance to talk to them.

While we're chatting, I learn that the current crowd had nothing to do with the bus. It's just busy. I overhear one staffer comment to another that "They've been lined up since we opened the door." When the bus does pull in, we know. For one thing, the driver announces their arrival with a blast of the bus horn, which sounds a lot like a bugling elk. More importantly, there's now a line out of the door.

Before long, my paperwork is cleared, and I have my ID picture taken. It's as bad as I'd feared. It appears that I gained 200 pounds, and had my head stepped on by an elephant. (John later says that it looks like the TV when the aspect ratio is set wrong.) No time to worry about that, though. I need to get my uniform and get to Mammoth Hotel for the first orientation. Otherwise, I'll be crammed in with the bus crowd.

I'd had some trepidation about the uniform. My only experience with work uniforms was two very brief stints in food service, Wendy's when I was in high school, and Bob's Big Boy in college. Both lasted only a couple days each, in part because of the uncomfortable uniforms. Both were really cheap polyester. They were scratchy and didn't breathe at all. I couldn't imagine a whole summer dressed in crap like that.

I'm very relieved to find that Xanterra's are made of a very nice cotton-poly blend. They feel soft, and won't shrink. Best of all, they don't look terribly dorky. It's basically just khaki pants and a dark green short-sleeve shirt with a "Yellowstone" logo & the outline of a bear. I have a hard time convincing the wardrobe folks that I can't use a 34" inseam. I'm tall, but mostly long-waisted. Sure enough, they drag on the ground. I'm sent off with a 33" pair they scrounged up, and instructions that another altered pair will arrive through Housekeeping.

Later I learn that the uniforms are color-coded. The dark green shirt informs everyone that I'm a Residence Coordinator. Maroon means Housekeeping, and sage green means Hotel Front Desk. We also have name tags with our first names, and the state we're from. They're surprisingly good conversation starters. "What part of Virginia are you from?...No kidding, we were near there just a year ago!"

Despite all the inseam drama, I get to Mammoth in time for the 10 am orientation. I even have time to look over the very cool map in the conference room. It's made of wood inlay, with each of the 48 states (it's a 1937 map) having its own little slab. It also shows where the National Parks are. It's an intriguing bit of history.

Since the orientation isn't specific to any job, it's largey geared to not getting killed in the park. We're told how far away to stay from various animals, and are cautioned against impaired driving. The mountain roads are an especially bad place to take chances. We're shown a slide of a fairly recent accident, in which someone died. 

There's a discussion of Ecologix, Xanterra's environmental program.  It's purpose is to reduce the production of solid waste and greenhouse gasses, and decrease consumption of water and energy. I find this enouraging. I'd had misgivings about working for a company controlled by Philip Anschutz, who made part of his vast fortune in the petro industry.

We're also advised to leave ample time for driving. The general rule is to allow at least 45 minutes between junctions. Wildlife jams or poky drivers can easily double that or more. Neither distance nor critters nor slowpokes are valid excuses for arriving late to work. Later on, I learn that my orientation was only the second time that it was delivered by that presenter. I was surprised, since it went very smoothly.

Lunch is served in the Mammoth EDR (Employee Dining Room) before we all head off to our individual assignments. I've also been apprehensive about institutional food, but find a bit of reassurance here. The pasta & eggplant dish that I chose is very tasty.

I reach the Lake Area in about an hour and a half. It feels rather odd to take a drive through the park while I'm doing work-related things. First I check in at Personnel. Everyone there is friendly, and seems glad to see me. That's refreshing, after the no-eye-contact pre-layoff phase toward the end of my last job. I'm informed that I need to go to Safety Training at 8:30 the following morning, and have the rest of the day off. I'm told I need a manual, which is in the Goldeneye Dorm. Then I have to go to Pelican Dorm, which is where I will live. (This pleases me, since pelicans are one of my favorite birds.)

I find Goldeneye with no trouble, and get the manual from Jan. She's very friendly, and invites me to join her for dinner at 5. However, it's around 3, and I'll probably still be unpacking & settling in then.

Terry, the current RC for my dorm is outside picking up litter. I've learned that I'll most likely be taking his place before very long. He wants to be a fishing guide, but couldn't change jobs till another RC was hired. He gives me my key and some sheets, and points me to my room.

The room turns out to have a lot of issues. Whoever checked out the previous resident wasn't at all vigilant. There's trash in the trashcan, and weird green stains on the bathroom sink. The shower curtain is missing, though Terry has a new one on hand. To install it, I start to stand on the toilet lid. This closer look at the toilet reveals that it's a gothic horror. So there's a little delay while I clean it with my Clorox wipes and then wash my hands about 3 or 4 times.

I don't intend to completely unpack, since I'll be changing rooms fairly soon. Thanks to my arrival, the current RC is free to accept a job as a fishing guide. I'll move into the official RC quarters once that trasition is complete. Still, I need to put some of my clothes away. When I open the drawers, I find quite a bit of unidentifiable crud rattling around. The one bit I recognize is a fingernail. Even after pulling out more Clorox wipes, I'm grossed out. Housekeeping hint: trashbags make good drawer liners.

Before arriving, I'd wondered if I hadn't been a bit flaky bringing my own mattress pad. And to save a bit of money and car space, I figured I'd try using their sheets. Turns out, I should've trusted my instincts more. Their mattress pad hadn't been washed since the last person used it. I know this because it had quite a bit of his/her hair stuck to it, along with other assorted bits of crud. I grabbed it by the smallest edge possible, chucked it under the bed, and deployed my own. Thank gods, it's waterproof and has an antimicrobial coating. Next, I discover that A) there's no fitted sheet, and B) the flat sheets are too small to tuck under securely. Tomorrow's plan: drive back to Cody to buy sheets at Wal-Mart.

The bed frame & mattress concern me at first. They look sort of insubstantial, like something you'd find at a minimum security prison or charity summer camp. But they turn out to have about the level of firmness that I like. I decide to test them by taking a short nap.

Oops, that was a mistake! I wake up at about 6:15, and dinner ends at 6:30. I have to hustle to the Employee Dining Room (EDR). I see that cereal is available at all meals, and there are salad and sandwich bars. It's good to know there are alternatives, in case the entrees du jour are unappealing at some point.

After dinner, I take a walk by the lake. The view is spectacular, and I can easily see why Union Pacific chose this spot for the Hotel. The glinting water and panoramic vista of snow-dusted mountains make me wish I'd brought my camera. I also make sighting of 3 or 4 loons. After awhile I stroll past the General Store, not yet open for the season. They'll sell mostly souvenirs, but also some groceries and practical stuff. They also have a small restaurant offering basic stuff like burgers and ice cream. 

Eventually, I reach the end of the paved road, and decide to extend my walk down a lakeside path. It parallels the shore for about a quarter mile, and curves toward a stand of trees. I'm getting tired, so I only follow it about halfway to that point. It's a very pleasant area, and I wonder why none of the other people out strolling has taken the path. I don't ponder this very long, since I'm getting tired.

Between the busy day & emotional exhaustion, I'm not feeling very lively. I return to the dorm, and read more of "City of Scoundrels". Did I mention there's no TV in the dorms? I mean NONE, even in the common areas or pub. There's no reception of any kind, even if you brought your own set. But I'm only here for a little over four months, so I can live without it.

May 22 - Bear Jam Is Not a Condiment

Since my ride of desperation got me so close to Gardiner, I had a bit of time to spare. And I'd bought that Parks pass, so I might as well get some use out of it. I decided to head for the Yellowstone, using scenic routes. I've had enough of I-90 for the moment.

The Beartooth Highway was closed at the time of our visit in 2010, and it's been on my to-do list ever since. If it's been opened, I can use the northeast entrance, and reach Gardiner through the park roads. If not, I'll make a stop in Cody, which has a Sierra Trading Post outlet, and then use the east entrance. To get there, I took US 310 south. The scenery was quite pleasant – lots of rolling hillsides and mountain views.

Along the way, I pulled off to look at some abandoned buildings that have a historical marker. Turns out, these were the remnants of the Smith Mine, scene of the worst underground coal mine disaster in Montana history. 

 The buildings were left as a memorial to the 74 men who died on February 27, 1943. Some were killed in a violent explosion, but most succumbed to poisonous methane gasses. Two of the men had time to leave a note for their families:

"Walter & Johnny. Good-by.

Wives and daughters. We died

an easy death. Love from us both.

Be good."

The investigations into the disaster revealed that cigarette smoking was allowed in the mine, and that they used matches to light their blasting fuses. Neither was a good idea in a place where methane can build up.

Eventually, I found myself in the town of Red Lodge, which has a quaint Main Street and lots of motels. Just outside of town, I found a sign informing me that the Beartooth was still closed. No surprise.

No matter, a stop at the Sierra Trading Post will be very useful. I really could use a nice long-sleeved overshirt, and some really good sunglasses. I've been getting more & more sensitive to glare as I get older. My current sunglasses are better than average, but I still squint a lot when it's really bright. I'd made up my mind to spring for a really good pair, and I expect STP will have some at good prices. For that kind of money, I want to try them on.

After bit of backtracking I found my way to US 120. It's a nice drive, and I made good time to Cody. Sierra Trading Post had exactly what I need – a nice blue chambray work shirt and extra-strong sunglasses. The ones I like set me back $80. Hopefully, they'll spare me lots of eyestrain and headaches.

After coming out, I became very tempted to steal a dog. She was in the back of a pickup that was parked next to me. A lot of dogs will get territorial about their vehicle, and bark their heads off when you come close. But this one was very sweet. She came right over  when I said hello, and I saw right away she was old and arthritic. But still, she tottered over to let me pet her, and gave me lots of kisses. I noticed that she was wet from the rain, and shivering. Now, what kind of asshole leaves their poor arthritic dog suffering in the chill while they look at clothing? It was also obvious she was starved for affection. After a few seconds, she put a paw up on the side of the pickup, like she wanted to get out and come with me. There were tags on her collar, so I guess the owner looked after her to some degree. Dogs aren't allowed in the Yellowstone dorms, though. If that hadn't been an issue, I honestly couldn't say what I would've done. Hopefully she has a better life than this encounter suggests.

With my shopping done and temptation to commit a felony resisted, it was time to hit the road again. The road to the East Entrance winds through the Shoshone Valley, which is spectacular. There are amazing cliff formations everywhere you look. 

There is also a lot of wildlife, especially once you enter Shoshone National Forest. I made a very rare sighting of a flock of bighorn sheep. Most of the year they're only found on high mountaintops. But in mid-May, those were still snowed in.

When I showed my pass at the entrance gate, I was given several warnings. One was that a mother grizzly and two cubs had been seen near the road about five miles ahead. The other was that a storm had passed through, and since then the mountains had been "raining rocks". Four cars had been damaged already, and one of them had its undercarriage pulled apart. The ranger advises me to drive very slowly, and keep an eye out for falling rocks. I agree that this sounds like a wise idea.

The bears must have moved on, but I saw plenty of rocks on the road surface. Most were fairly small, but I still don't want them bouncing around my axles, transmission, gas tank, etc. Fortunately, Avalanche Peak doesn't live up to its name while I'm there. There was still a lot of snow at the higher passes.

Not long after I reach Yellowstone Lake, I saw some cars clustered near the Sedge Bay picnic area. I was very excited to see that they're viewing a grizzly bear! I've seen a black bear in the wild, but this was my first grizzly. Its age appeared to be somewhere between a cub and a full-grown adult, probably a year or two old. It was digging around and eating something it found underground, most likely some sort of root, or maybe insect larvae.

When I first pulled up, there were about 5 or 6 other cars trying to get a glimpse & take pictures. We were joined by quite a few others, both on the shoulder of the main road, and the picnic area turnout. There were also a few that stopped on the travel lanes of the road, which made us an official Bear Jam. 

Wildlife Jams are common in Yellowstone National Park, despite being illegal. You're never supposed to stop in the travel lanes, or block them by not pulling all the way onto the shoulder. But it happens many times every day. People get excited and don't think about what they're doing. Usually the rangers shoo everyone off, unless the animal shuffles away before they arrive.

The worst snarls occur when bison decide to cross the road, or worse, use it themselves. It's easier walking there than on the grass. They'll stroll along for miles, blocking one or both lanes. Do not challenge them. You'll just end up as a YouTube search result when someone types in "Yellowstone stupid".

Anyway, I stuck around watching the bear for awhile. There was a short time when the other cars had me penned in, which made me a bit nervous. But a ranger pulled up, and people started to move along. Just as well, sunset wasn't far off and I wanted to reach Gardiner before dark.

The TraveLodge had good signage and was easy to find. It was around 9 when I checked in. the front desk clerk told me that John had called, and was concerned that I hadn't checked in yet. My estimate have been between 7 and 8 PM. I had underestimated the distances in the park. Trouble was, I had no way of calling back, lacking a calling card or working cell phone. I couldn't even send an email, since the hotel's internet had been knocked out by the same storm that had caused trouble in the park.

For $129, I was a bit miffed that they had no pool or hot tub. But it's early in the season, and a lot of places weren't open yet. It's a seller's market, really. The room was nice, at least. The only thing I didn't like was the shower. For some reason, it was shaped like a right triangle, and had the showerhead in the narrowest part. It was very hard to use.

At check-in, I'd been warned that the restaurants closed early, and I'd have to hurry to catch the one place that stayed open till 9. I was too tired to care, though, and made it another cheese sandwich & PBR night.