Tourism Time II

Breakfast this morning was a yogurt and the cinnamon roll that I pocketed at the Super 8. Here's another things I like about small, family owned motels: they don't chase you out at check-out time. And most use metal keys, not the ones programmed to lock you out at that exact second. Usually by the time I eat, work on this blog, and pack the car, it's past the deadline.

Since Wall Drug was closed last night, I stroll through before hitting the road. Ted and Dorothy Hustead purchased the Wall Drug Store in 1931. Wall had a population of 231 people, most of whom were Depression-era poor. The store's prospects looked grim until Dorothy was inspired to offer free ice water to travelers driving along Route 16A. Of course, that wouldn't stop many people today. Keep in mind no one had car AC in those days, and there weren't mini-marts selling soft drinks and Slurpees every few miles. From the first day they put up signs, they were surrounded by customers. Today, they original drug store is a museum, and the property has expanded to include Western art, souvenirs (many, many souvenirs), an ice cream shop, and a chapel. I'm not religious, but I still thought that was nice. It our mercenary world, not many people would devote significant square footage to spiritual needs. The place is also a low-grade cowboy theme park, with animatronic displays, and things like this:

Next, I headed back to the Badlands, to view the areas I didn't get a close look at yesterday. I ended up spending more time there than I'd had in mind. It was so very impressive. The endless variety of shapes and colors are quite fascinating. There's another area I couldn't see, since you access it on a gravel road "passable only in dry weather". They also have several trails I didn't have time for, so I'll have to go back someday.

The next few hours were devoted to driving. It rained most of that time, often rather heavily. The scenery was pleasant, though, full of tidy farms and ranches. It was nice just to be off the Interstate for awhile.

Outside Rapid City, I made a stop at Reptile Gardens. It started as a roadside attraction in 1937, founded by a young reptile enthusiast named Earl Brockelsby. He presented as a one-man-show to travelers headed to Mount Rushmore. It capitalized on peoples' ingrained fascination with (and often fear of) snakes and other reptiles. Today, the site is a zoo that houses the most species of reptiles of any zoo in the world, and is dedicated to education and conservation.

 

This little tortoise is full-grown, but could fit in the palm of your hand. How cute is that?

Upon arrival, I was told that a "snake show" would begin in about 30 minutes. I had no idea what this was, but something that sounded so odd was not to be missed. I spent that half-hour checking out their exhibits, which also included amphibians and noisily squawking birds. The snake show turned out to be quite interesting and funny. The handler, named Terry, removed several snakes from their boxes, so we could see them being active. At one point he pretended to throw one into the audience, generating as many shrieks as laughs.

After this break, I got back on the road and headed for the Rocket Motel in Custer City. In a clever marketing effort, they present themselves as a classic vintage motor hotel. This scares off people who'd complain that they're "outdated", and attracts people like me who get a kick out of it. The property is very clean and well maintained, and the service was friendly and helpful.

After checkig in, I had just enough time before dark to see the Crazy Horse Memorial. The project is the Lakota Sioux nation's answer to Mount Rushmore. It was started by Henry Standing Bear, who stated that "My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know that the red man has great heroes, too." After being rebuffed by Mount Rushmore sculptor Gutzon Borglum (who, in all fairness, had his hands full), he turned to Korczak Ziolkowski, who'd won first prize in sculpture at the 1939 World's Fair.

Ziolkowski accepted, and dedicated the rest of his life to the project. After his death in 1982, it was run by his wife Ruth Ross, and most of their 10 children.

There is no projected completion date for the sculpture. The vagaries of weather, geology and financing (the project refuses federal grants, and is funded entirely by private donations) don't allow for such specificity. The acts of creation and building community involvement are considered worthwhile in and of themselves. In our goal-oriented society, I find this rather refreshing.

Besides, the Memorial as a whole will include much more than the sculpture. The Indian Museum of North America showcases art and cultural artifacts donated by hundreds of people from around the world. Eventually, the site will also include a University of South Dakota satellite campus and a medical center.

Back at the Rocket Motel, I settled in to eat the mini-pizza I'd bought a couple doors down. Iwasn't really in the mood for pizza, but most of trhe town had close for the evening. The only open eatery looked expensive, and was too dimly lit to read. Carry-out to the rescue!